Archive for category: food

Discover Maury: Wine, History & Natural Beauty

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Picture yourself arriving in Maury, an authentic wine‑village tucked into the Agly Valley in the Pyrénées‑Orientales. Nestled between the first foothills of the Pyrénées and the dramatic ruins of Château de Quéribus (pictured above), Maury radiates the rugged beauty and warm hospitality of southern France. I worked here in 2006 for Maison Chapoutier and fell in love with the area.
🍷 The Wines & Terroir at the Heart
Maury is famous for its AOC Maury wines — particularly its vin doux naturel reds, though in recent years dry reds (Maury Sec) have gained recognition.
The vineyards stretch over communes including Maury itself, Saint‑Paul‑de‑Fenouillèdes, Tautavel and Rasiguères, growing Grenache noir (predominant), Grenache blanc & gris, Macabeu (Macabeo), and other varieties.
One of the best stops for tasting: Les Vignerons de Maury, the cooperative winery in the village. They offer guided tours and tasting by appointment.
🏛 What to See & Do
Explore the Maison du Terroir, which houses the tourist office, a wine bar, and a starred restaurant where you can sample Maury wines paired with local cuisine.
Hike through vineyards on scenic trails; vineyard walks with panoramic views over the Agly Valley, the Corbières, and ancient castles.
Visit Château de Quéribus nearby, one of the most iconic Cathar castles, perched high above – dramatic views and a window into medieval history.
🍽 Where to Eat & Stay
Here are a few simple options:
Restaurants & Bistros
Au Reg’al – French cuisine, warm atmosphere.
Le Pichenouille – more casual, barbecue and Mediterranean vibes.
Wineries & Wine Bars
Les Vignerons de Maury for tasting & learning about the winemaking.
Mas Amiel — another producer with strong reputation in the AOC Maury region. A great visit in my experience!
Accommodation
Maury offers charming bed‑and‑breakfasts and rural lodgings. Being a small rural commune, options are cozy and locally run – expect authenticity and peace. Seek them out on Airbnb.
🛠 Practical Info
Maury has a rural vibe; getting there is easiest by car from Perpignan (~28‑km) or via regional networks.
Best time to visit: late spring through early autumn, when vineyards are in full life, and things like vineyard walks and tastings are operating in full. Warm but not too hot.
Language: French is standard; some locals speak Catalan/Occitan influences too.
Maury is a destination where wine isn’t just something you drink, it’s woven into every vista, every trail, every meal. You’ll leave with more than memories — you’ll leave with a taste of terroir, of tradition, and the feeling of having been somewhere genuine.
And check out nearby Cucugnan – an absolute must! Near to Queribus….

Discover Collioure in French Catalonia

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Discover Collioure: A Jewel of the Côte Vermeille
Nestled between the Mediterranean Sea and the foothills of the Pyrenees, Collioure is a destination where art, wine, and Catalan culture converge. This former fishing village, with its iconic pink-domed bell tower and sun-drenched harbour, has long captivated painters like Matisse and Derain—and today, it invites you to experience its vibrant palette of tastes and textures.
Collioure’s culinary scene is exceptional. Begin at Le 5ème Péché (link below), where French-Japanese fusion meets local seafood, or enjoy the pure Catalan flavors at Casa Léon, steps from the waterfront. For something more casual yet deeply local, the anchovies from Roque—salted, marinated, or preserved in oil—are essential tasting, with century-old savoir-faire behind every fillet.
Wine lovers will find their paradise here. The steep terraced vineyards of Banyuls-Collioure produce bold, expressive reds and fortified sweet wines.
Stay at Le Relais des Trois Mas, offering panoramic views of the bay and Château Royal, or choose the boutique comfort of Casa Païral, set in a 19th-century Catalan villa.
Collioure also pulses with cultural richness: explore the Musée d’Art Moderne, stroll the lively market on Wednesday and Sunday mornings, or hike the coastal trails with dramatic views of sea and vines.
Whether you’re savoring a glass of Banyuls at sunset or discovering the deep roots of local gastronomy, Collioure offers a travel experience that is as refined as it is authentic. For lovers of wine, history, and Mediterranean charm, this is where your next story begins.

Explore Provence – Uzès

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Nestled in the sun-kissed landscapes of Provence, Uzès is one of southern France’s most captivating secrets—an irresistible blend of Roman heritage, noble architecture, and gastronomic flair. Just 25 minutes from Nîmes and a short drive from the Pont du Gard, this impeccably preserved medieval town offers a rich sensory journey rooted in terroir and tradition.
Start early at the legendary Wednesday and Saturday market in Place aux Herbes (pictured), where local producers showcase the best of the Gard: goat cheeses, fragrant herbs, seasonal fruit, and tapenades served with warm, crusty fougasse. Nearby, La Table d’Uzès (Michelin-starred, link is below) transforms these ingredients into refined, Provençal plates paired with regional wines from Pic Saint Loup, Costières de Nîmes, and the Rhône Valley to the east.
For a more casual but no less memorable experience, reserve a table at Les Terroirs, a wine bar and épicerie fine with an impeccable selection of local charcuterie, wines, and olive oils. In the evening, dine at Ma Cantine, a modern bistro blending bistro-style intimacy with seasonal Provençal cooking.
Culturally, Uzès offers depth beyond its cuisine. Tour the Duché, the town’s ducal palace, or explore the Haribo Candy Museum—a hit with children and nostalgic adults alike. For active travellers, cycling routes and walking paths weave through garrigue-scented hills and vineyards, with kayaking available nearby on the Gardon River.
Stay in comfort at Maison d’Uzès, a luxurious Relais & Châteaux property set in a 17th-century townhouse, or opt for the charm of self-catering with a view at Les Olivettes, surrounded by olive groves.
Uzès isn’t just a place to visit—it’s a place to taste, to explore, and to linger. Let the rhythm of Provençal life draw you in.

Saint-Émilion: Fave Restaurants

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FOUR GREAT RESTAURANTS IN AND AROUND SAINT-ÉMILION. There are just so many restaurants in this gem of a village that you really do need some good advice on where to go so as to avoid the tourist traps. One of the first great local eateries I remember being taken to during a wine-buying expedition in about 2009 is https://www.envers-dudecor.com/en/ and they are still there so must be doing something – or quite a lot of things – right in their pursuit of excellent south-western French country cuisine with just enough high-end flair to make it well worth the money, and it was still cracking on my next visit there 10 years later. 100 metres away but a level below the street in a cosy dining room dug into the limestone bedrock is https://www.lardetbouchon.fr/ where the food and wine are definitely top end, the service superb, and the atmosphere all-enveloping. Venturing a few kms out of town the restaurant at the grandiose https://www.grand-barrail.com/en/ is world class in every dimension and highly recommended, as is the 5* accommodation there. And if you can organise transport, a meal on the outdoor terrace at Caffe Cuisine in summer in the riverside village of Branne is highly recommended (no website of their own but you can find some details here https://fr.gaultmillau.com/en/restaurants/cafe-cuisine and on social media) where you can almost hear the passing Dordogne river (though not actually see it until go out for your post-prandial stroll). Please feel free to mention in the comments any other recommendations you might have.

Balmy Southern Rhône: Cairanne

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Cairanne, its village and vineyards, are at the sweet junction between the ancient floodplains of the Rhône and the wild and rocky high country of Provençe. And if you’re looking for a place to go wine tasting then look up my friends at Caveau du Cairanne . It’s a mighty big winery that makes some might big wines! Voted Cave Co-operative of the year in 2024. I’m not an expert on restaurant bookings in Cairanne but can recommend a trip over to Gigondas for lunch, perhaps at the wonderful https://www.loustalet-gigondas.fr/ . And for other exceptional wine tasting experiences then look up Domaine Croze-Granier in Roquemaure https://www.domainecrozegranier.fr/ or in Châteauneuf-du-Pape Domaine Juliette Avril or Domaine du Galet des Papes or https://www.domaine-de-pignan.com/index.php?lg=uk . Mention my name and they will look after you! In winter, the truffle market at Richerenches is an unmissable slice of gastronomic southern French life.

Caveau du Cairanne also recommends Hôtel Restaurant Les Florets for wonderful accommodation and food above Gigondas/at the foot of the Dentelles de Montmirail, and Le Tourne au Verre for top notch cuisine in Cairanne itself at a reasonable price.

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Discover Chinon in the Loire Valley

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🇫🇷 Exploring Chinon: A Loire Valley Treasure 🇫🇷
Planning a trip to the Loire Valley? Don’t miss Chinon — one of our favourite wine villages and a place bursting with charm, history, and flavour.
Here’s what makes Chinon worth a detour:
🍷 Wines of Character – Chinon is Cabernet Franc country. The red wines are fragrant, fresh, and wonderfully food-friendly. Some of our favourite discoveries for The Other Bordeaux have come from the riverbanks just outside this medieval village such as BAUDRY & DUTOUR . Succulent whites from Chenin Blanc and refreshing Cab Franc rosé are also among the world’s best. Chinon AOP
🏰 The Fortress of Chinon – Walk the ramparts of this cliffside château where Joan of Arc met Charles VII. The views over the Vienne River and surrounding vineyards are unforgettable.
🚲 Vineyard Adventures – Whether on foot or by bike, the landscape around Chinon is full of picturesque trails through vineyards, forests, and limestone caves where wines quietly age.
🥖 Market Day – On Thursdays and Sundays, the village comes alive with a bustling market. Local goat’s cheese, crusty bread, ripe fruit and of course a bottle of Chinon rouge… it’s the perfect picnic waiting to happen.
🍽️ Food & Wine Heaven – Try local bistros like L’Ardoise Chinon or Les Années 30 for rustic dishes made with local ingredients, best paired with a glass of what the region does best.
🛏️ Where to Stay – Make a weekend of it:
• Hôtel Diderot – A charming 17th-century townhouse with beautiful breakfast spreads (including house-made jams).
• Château de Marcay – A romantic countryside château just outside Chinon with its own vineyard and fine dining.
• La Maison Rouge – A warm, wine-loving B&B right in the heart of the old town.
🛶 Canoe on the Vienne – For a different view of the vineyards, rent a canoe and glide past fairytale villages and weeping willows along the water.
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Have you been to Chinon? Share your favourite memories below! And if you’re dreaming of Loire Valley reds, we’ve got some beauties arriving soon… 👀🍇

Live Your Best Life In Carcassonne

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Step inside the storybook charm of Carcassonne, a city where time stands still behind medieval ramparts and gastronomy reigns supreme. Famous for its UNESCO-listed fortified Cité, Carcassonne offers far more than architectural wonder—this is a destination for true epicureans.
Begin your visit with a stroll through the Cité’s cobbled lanes, where you’ll uncover the Basilica of Saints Nazarius and Celsus, 52 towers of fairy-tale grandeur, and sweeping views of the Aude Valley. But the real discovery lies in the cuisine. Carcassonne is the spiritual home of cassoulet, the rich, slow-cooked dish of duck confit, pork, and white beans. For the best rendition, book a table at Le Comte Roger, where chef Pierre Mesa redefines this regional classic with finesse.
Stay in refined comfort at Hôtel de la Cité, a five-star sanctuary within the medieval walls, or opt for the tranquil countryside luxury of Domaine d’Auriac, complete with its Michelin-starred restaurant.
Don’t miss the Canal du Midi, just beyond the ramparts. Whether cycling along its leafy banks or taking a leisurely boat cruise, it’s a serene counterpoint to the drama of the Cité. Market lovers will appreciate the vibrant Place Carnot market (on Saturdays), bursting with local produce, truffles, and artisan breads, and the covered markets known locally as the Prosper Montagné Halles (Tuesday to Saturday mornings).
In Carcassonne, history sets the stage—but food and wine steal the show. Let your appetite lead the way.

Make Sparkling Memories in Reims

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🇫🇷✨ Reims: Make memories that sparkle ✨🇫🇷
In the heart of the Champagne region, Reims is more than just a historic city—it’s a celebration of elegance, taste, and heritage. Just 45 minutes by train from Paris, this northern gem invites you to discover the world’s most iconic sparkling wine at its source.
Reims is home to the grandeur of the cathedral of Notre-Dame de Reims, where French kings were once crowned, and beneath its streets lie the chalk caves that have matured Champagne for centuries. For lovers of the finer things, this is sacred ground.
Gastronomy in Reims is compelling. Dine at Racine (2 Michelin stars) for inspired Franco-Japanese fusion [ https://www.racine.re/ ], or enjoy refined seasonal fare at Café du Palais [ https://www.cafedupalais.fr/ ], a local institution adorned with Art Deco charm since 1930. Don’t miss Le Crypto [ https://restaurantlecrypto.eatbu.com/?lang=en ], a modern bistro rooted in tradition and creativity.
Stay in style at Domaine Les Crayères [ https://lescrayeres.com/fr/ ], an opulent château hotel nestled in parkland, or you could opt for a stay at La Caserne Chanzy Hotel & Spa [ https://www.lacasernechanzy.com/en/ ], perfectly located just a short stroll from Reims Cathedral. This elegant boutique hotel blends refined comfort with modern wellness, offering a luxurious alternative to family‑run guesthouses.
When visiting, be sure to taste Champagne from the region’s finest independent producers—Champagne Yves Louvet [ https://champagne-yves-louvet.com/ ], Champagne Testulat [ https://champagne-testulat.com/en/3-our-champagnes ], and Champagne Veuve Maître Geoffroy [ https://champagne-maitre-geoffroy.com/…/champagne…/ ] —each proudly imported by The Other Bordeaux. These maisons reflect the artistry and integrity of Champagne’s grower-producer tradition, offering vintages that capture the character of their terroir. Just let me know if you want me to help you set up a tasting appointment.
For a deeper connection to the land, explore the nearby Montagne de Reims by e-bike or follow the Champagne Route through surrounding villages. Visit the morning market at Place du Forum for local cheeses and charcuterie to pair with your next glass.
Reims isn’t just a destination—it’s an invitation to taste the essence of Champagne. 🥂

Explore the Loire

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A big thank you to The Other Bordeaux customer Will Morony (writer) and wife Susan (photographer) for this outstanding account of their recent trip to the Loire and the suggestions that I know will be of great interest and practical use for the wider TOB community. A liquid gift of appreciation is coming your way, Susan and Will! Thank you. Here is their account:
“Our week in the Loire Valley.
My wife and I had a great week in the Loire Valley in May 2025. We chose Amboise as our base and that worked well for us.
We used AirBNB to book a 16th century gîte called Gîte des Martinets et son coin de verdure. It is located on the island in the middle of the River Loire, opposite the castle, so there were fabulous views (day and night) from the river bank just 20 metres from our door. The bridge to the main town was only a few metres away as well, so all in all a very good location.
Restaurants.
These are places we are happy to recommend.
La Fourchette in Amboise. https://www.facebook.com/lafourchette37/ There was clear evidence of some imagination in the kitchen that was matched by friendly service in what was obviously a family venture.
Les Hautes Roches in Rochecorbon (near Vouvray). https://www.leshautesroches.com/en/
It is a Relais et Château hotel, so quite upmarket, but we were very happy to have the €38 menu. Brilliant location, good service and food.
Literally 40m away from our apartment, on the banks of the Loire. More a bar than a restaurant, we sat outside with the river and town in front of us on a gorgeous evening for a light dinner. [Photo of the delicious spread by Susan taken from Le Shaker].
Amboise town.
There is a compact old centre that is good to walk around, if a bit touristic in places (e.g., near the chateau). We found the fromageur [cheese merchant] in one of the main drags very helpful, and the nearby butcher was good.
Clos Lucé, Leonardo da Vinci’s home for the last few years of his life is worth a visit to see the models of his inventions and the beautiful and extensive park-like gardens.
Châteaux of the Loire Valley.
There are many. We chose the first two on the basis of location while the third was targetted.
Château de Chenonceau. Lovely formal gardens. The Renaissance château is built over water – La Cher.
Château de Chaumont had an emphasis on the artworks – mostly sculptures – being displayed throughout the buildings and especially scattered around the grounds.
Château d’Angers was quite a drive from Amboise, but worth it to see La tenture de l’Apocalypse (Tapestry of the Apocalyse). The size, the colours and the details are simply breath-taking. https://www.chateau-angers.fr/
Wineries.
I had contacted Tom Munro from The Other Bordeaux to ask if he could make an introduction or two in the area. He came back with a couple of suggestions and we were able to arrange appointments with both.
The first was with Vignoble Brisebarre in Vouvray, just. 20 minute drive for us.
We were hosted by Anne, the charming daughter of the current owner/winemaker. She had excellent English and is the 5th generation Brisebarre on the property. Her father and grandfather greatly expanded the cellars and landholdings in the 1980s. Anne and her brother recently rejoined the business after other careers away.
The key to Vouvray wines is the limestone. In the cellar the vines are 20 m above, with solid limestone between. This explains why there were no vines visible from the valley roads we’d been on. Driving up higher after our visit there were vines everywhere on top of rolling hills. The cellars were originally dug for building stone; then their use changed and they were extended. The cellars contain significant stocks of old and aging wines, at least as far back as 1976 which was apparently a legendary vintage.
The staggering thing about Vouvray is that they only use Chenin Blanc for a vast range of styles. And all the Brisebarre wines had significant personality and class, with minerality often a key feature. It was a delight to meet Anne and have the opportunity to try their wines.
The second introduction was to Château de La Grille, a property of Domaines Baudry & Dutour. It is in Chinon, so about an hour and a half away from Amboise. We arrived in Chinon in time to have our picnic lunch by the river, overlooking the old part of town. It looked to us like a nice place, but then again that seems to be generally the case in this part of the world.
Domitille hosted us. She explained that this is one of the four domains of Baudry & Dutour that are located in different appellations in the Loire Valley. This property was bought about 30 years ago and the château, other buildings and gardens have had serious renovation. The place is now used as a wedding venue.
The tasting room is a new building, with the winery ‘action’ all underground. All very modern.
We were shown a wide range of interesting wines from the different domaines. The Gosset family from Champagne had the property before this group. So the Chinon Rouge from the vineyards around the château continues to be bottled in the unique Gosset Champagne bottles. We had the 2022 wine which was made 50/50 in concrete vats and in barrels. It has fresh fruits and well integrated tannins. We liked it.
So between these two visits we feel as though we saw two ends of a spectrum. Brisebarre is a small, family producer while Baudry & Dutout is a multi-property, much larger concern. And I am keeping my eye out for when the wines as they are getting onto The Other Bordeaux list.”
Thank you Will and Susan!
If anyone else in the TOB community would like to submit a similar French travelogue, please send to tom@theotherbordeaux.com . Everyone would be most grateful for your insights and suggestions.

Pomerol – tips for the visiting wine lover

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Small in size but towering in reputation, **Pomerol** is one of the crown jewels of Bordeaux’s Right Bank—a village whose name is synonymous with richness, depth, and some of the world’s most coveted Merlot-based wines. While there’s no official classification here (so no “Grand Cru” or “Premier Cru”), the wines speak for themselves, and a visit to Pomerol offers a front-row seat to quiet excellence.
For a grounded and authentic tasting experience, visit **Clos René**, one of Pomerol’s oldest family-run estates, where traditional methods yield wines of deep character and charm. Just nearby, **Château Sainte-Marie** offers a warm welcome and beautifully structured Merlot that reflects the soul of the appellation. And don’t miss **Le Clos du Beau-père**, imported by *The Other Bordeaux*—a small-production estate crafting supple, elegant reds that offer exceptional value and true Pomerol expression.
Dining in the region is intimate and exceptional. Just minutes away in Libourne, **Restaurant La Table de Catusseau** offers refined local cuisine with an excellent Bordeaux wine list. For a relaxed yet memorable lunch, **L’Atelier de Candale** in nearby Saint-Laurent-des-Combes pairs sweeping vineyard views with seasonal dishes designed to complement Right Bank reds.
Stay at **Château Hôtel Grand Barrail**, a luxurious 19th-century estate surrounded by vines, featuring a spa and gourmet restaurant.
Beyond the cellar, explore the cobbled streets and heritage of **Saint-Émilion**, just a few kilometers away, or cycle through the undulating vineyards that shape this iconic landscape. In Pomerol, the pace is slow, the wines are deep, and the experience is nothing short of profound.